Simply hang the fur to air-dry away from direct heat or sunlight. For faux fur , high-heat can cause the fibers to melt and tangle. Allow the garment to air-dry and use a wide-tooth comb to slowly separate the fibers.
Bath mats can harbor bacteria that spread athlete's foot and odor; so they should be washed and disinfected often in hot water. However, they should never be put in the clothes dryer on high heat.
The rubber backing can crumble and even melt. Swimwear needs to be washed after every wearing to remove body soil, sunscreen oils, sand, salt, or chlorine. But after washing, allow it to air-dry. Dryer heat will cause the fabrics to distort and ruin that summer look. Whether silk stockings, ballet tights , or wool socks , hosiery should always be air-dried to prevent shrinking, snags, and pilling.
If you have clothes or home accessories with sequins or beading , keep them away from the dryer. If the embellishments are glued on, the heat can cause the glue to melt, and beads and sequins can become distorted. Even if your bedroom slippers can go through the washing machine, don't put them in the dryer. The heat can cause non-skid soles to separate and melt. Some wool clothing can be tossed in the washer or hand washed easily at home.
However, nothing made out of wool should be placed in the dryer. Wool is a natural fiber from sheep or goats, and the outer layer contains scales that interlock and shrink when subjected to excess moisture and high heat. Once the scales interlock, it can be quite difficult to return the fabric to its original size. You probably won't be washing a big load of oily work rags , but even a load of laundry that includes oily kitchen towels or clothes splashed with gasoline can cause a problem if you put them in the dryer.
The high heat can cause residual oils in the fabric to combust and start a fire, and oily materials can easily transfer to dryer surfaces. Always air-dry, preferably outside but out of direct sunlight. Don't put anything in the dryer until you've checked the pockets for common items like crayons , gum , lip balm , jewelry , and even cell phones. Reply to this topic Start new topic. Recommended Posts.
Raini Posted September 18, Posted September 18, Ds just brought home some sweaters that say to dry flat. That's not gonna happen. What will happen if they are thrown into the dryer with all his other clothes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options West Coast Mom Posted September 18, WishboneDawn Posted September 18, LaxMom Posted September 18, I'll let him know and let him decide. So it can be done!
Mycrazyhouse has done it for years! WishboneDawn Posted September 19, Posted September 19, So, first thing's first—take a deep breath, and hold off on dumping that hoodie in the donation pile just yet. Try this simple trick to bring wool, cotton, cashmere, or any other natural fiber clothing item back to life.
That includes cotton T-shirts, many sweaters, and jeans, all of which you should be able to bring back to their original, stretched-out state—but note that you'll have less luck with material blends and synthetic fibers. You can also use a gentle wool wash like Eucalan or Woolite for delicates.
Leave the clothing item inside the sink during this step. Once it's fully drained, gently squeeze the garment, removing excess water. Do not rinse it with clean water or wring it dry. Roll the towel up, with the clothing in it, to absorb more water. You can go ahead and get unraveled over that really terrible sweater joke I just made, though.
There are two separate things to know when it comes to extending the time between washing, and they basically come down to prevention and triage. Prevention is as easy as wearing something underneath, like an undershirt, to keep that aforementioned build-up from making its way onto the sweater.
Over on the triage front, there is spot treating. It's exactly what it sounds like—treating spots, a. With those fundamentals behind us, let's talk about the actual washing. I know you're like, "Good grief, lady, finally. Macaroni and Jesus, it took you a long enough damned time to actually, ya know, answer the question. But look, you learned some things along the way and if brevity is what you're after there are loads of cleaning experts who write in bullet points all over this great big Internet of ours.
I won't be hurt if you seek them out. The small act of pearl-clutching I engaged in due to a whiff of improper storage technique was nothing compared to the gasp of excitement I let out when I read that our Letter Writer knew of what I like to call The Woolite Mystery.
OK, fine, my idea of cool and weird and yours are likely wildly different. The story goes a little something like this: When Woolite was formulated, it was much gentler than competing detergents of the day. But, as detergent evolved and became more sophisticated, Woolite stayed the same and now, in comparison to today's detergents, is far too harsh for use on woolens and other delicates.
You have no idea how good it feels to finally be able to say that with certainty. The reason I can do so, is that I asked Leigh Boerner, an expert in detergents who reviews those products for The Sweethome , to help me solve the mystery.
And she did! Here's what Leigh had to say about the findings of her research on delicates detergents, "I remember you asked me at some point about Woolite and if it was really bad for wool.
Now that I've tested it, I really don't think so. I took the pH of all the detergents I tested, since a basic [alkaline] solution can damage wools and cashmere and fun fibers like that. Leigh added, "I think that the pH of detergents used to be a lot higher and perhaps Woolite's pH used to be higher as well?
It's just speculation at this point, but I have a feeling that it used to be a problem but was fixed long ago, but 'Woolite is evil' remains in people's brains despite this. It actually cleaned very well, was one of the best. So there you have it!
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